I felt as if I were in a soba shop tucked faraway in the mountainous
region of Wakayama, snugged cozily with a warm bowl of soba with cold wind
blowing outside. I do not intend to exaggerate my words but this was
exactly my response towards this humble bowl of Spicy Mentai Oroshi Soba.
It has all the autumn elements, or more specifically wild vegetables such
as nameko, warabi stalks, daikon, bamboo shoots, shredded carrots that I
would collectively call them 山菜. These gave this bowl plenty of textures and depth to the savoury broth,
of which was indisputably soothing to the belly. I thought the heap of cold
spicy mentai would be at odds with the hot broth but I was wrong. It
imparted hints of warmth with the gentle spiciness and not just blatant
saltiness which is the case these days for many dishes which seemed to be
exploiting the popularity of cod roe but using it in the wrong way.
The noodles, no less excellent than some of the handmade soba I’ve had in
Tokyo. It’s light brown, not dark grey like most Japanese restaurants in
SG. The texture was close to Chinese ee-mian, firm and cut off easily with
every bite, making the noodles totally different from the al-dente pasta
or chewy udon we are familiar with.
As much as I am showering praise on this dish, the Beef Tsukemen Seiro
($20.80) -- chilled plain soba was served with a warm broth of beef,
mushrooms, fried beancurd and soft boiled egg -- was a disappointment.
Don’t get me wrong. It’s not that it was bad, but it did not wow. I didn’t
expect it to taste like Yoshinoya sukiyaki broth. It was too sweet and
barely satisfied with the scanty wiggles of beef. Not worth as much as the
Spicy Mentai Soba for the same price tag.
Shimbashi Soba
290 Orchard Rd, #B1-41, Singapore 238859
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