Monday, October 6, 2014

Jean Paul Hevin : Summer collection 2014

*updates*
Summer is commonly associated with tropical icy desserts but Jean Paul Hevin injects a darker mood with his chocolate interpretations. On top of the yearly summer verrines , JPH launched the Ultimate Chocolate Millefeuille but it's a total let-down. Soggy chocolate puff pastry with a gluey chocolate custard. But thankfully, the "Matcha" (661 yen) compensated for it. Rich Matcha white chocolate mousse riding atop griotte gelee, sesame dacquoise and a zesty yuzu cream and wrapped with a dark chocolate curtain on all sides for a protective layer. There was also a tomato fiesta and I got the Tomate 'in Macaron  (281 yen) , which enhanced the tomato flavour without it being overpowering through a dash of fleur De sel.
Matcha
抹茶風味のホワイトチョーコレートムースと柚子クリーム、グリオットジューレ、ゴマ入りビスキューイを重ねたケーキ
Ultimate Chocolate Millefeuille
Tomate 'in Macaron  (281 yen)


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Jean Paul Hevin X Japan Airlines : Desserts on the Air
Plated desserts on board airline flights? Pierre Herme has collaborated with ANA before and now it's Jean Paul Hevin which is partnering with Japan Airlines for the dessert course on its first class and business class menu. 

Though it is impossible for me to take Japan Airlines just for the dessert, it is possible to enjoy them at the cafe of Jean Paul Hevin. And that's what I did. The first class dessert is created by Chef Seiji Yamamoto, the man behind top-notched Roppongi's Japanese restaurant Ryujin. 
Named Desir (¥1575), it's a plate of pure cocoa sorbet covered with creamy milk foam spiked with some Japanese sake. I don't know anything about good sake but this really boozy and not sweet at all. Seems rather insubstantial though because it feels like eating clouds. 
Instead, I grew more fond of the Business class dessert "Delice" ¥1575--Matcha Mousse with Macaron Chocolate Amer which has clinched the top prize award. 

It's not just simple matcha mousse but at the center is a chocolate truffle filled with matcha syrup and I accidentally burst it without realizing its existence. Despite its petite size, it is packed with other stuff like the crunchy cookie flakes at the base
The combination of the matcha and chocolate together is SO GOOD that one can forget whatever matcha parfaits or mousse cake after having this. The genius chef behind this is Chef Chikara Yamada, who owns the molecular gastronomy-kaiseki restaurant under the same name in Minami-Azabu. He used to train under El Bulli in Spain.  A bonus that comes with this dessert is this Parisien chocolate Chaud that costs ¥1155 as an ala carte drink. But there are at least 6 other types of Chocolat Chaud on the menu. This is less creamy like the one at Patisserie G and I prefer this kind of consistency.  
MOUNT FUJI
For cakes, it actually has a whole series of Mont Blanc that comes in seasonal flavours. This Pistachio Mont Blanc is really very light in sweetness and texture. 
The meringue at the base is very crunchy and not chewy at all. It sits in a plastic cup so the crunchy bits would not fall outside and make a mess.BERGAMOTE ¥675
The chocolate cakes are not cheap but the quality is excellent. This consists of Bergamote Chocolate Mousse, Orange Bavaroise and Chocolate Sponge. Ice Cream Salted Caramel (Summer Goodies) 
During summer, it introduced a series of verrine mousses that are so smooth and creamy. Each one has its own characteristics and perfect for those who do not prefer chocolates or cakes.
Poire Caramel [ベリーヌ ポワールキャラメル] 630円 : キャラメル サレのジュレ・バニラクリーム・ポワールのジュレを合せました。
Another salted dessert with the gooey salted caramel sauce at the base to balance the sweet vanilla cream. Topped with a layer of pear jelly.

CHOCOLAT JASMINE【ベリーヌショコラジャスマン 693円】
ライチ風味のムースとジャスミン風味のアングレーズ
Lychee Mousse, Jasmine Creme Anglaise, Salted Crumbles. I am quite surprised that JPH actually made use of lychee as it is quite a rare fruit in Japan.

MATCHA【ベリーヌ マッチャ 735円
My favourite is none other than this Matcha White Chocolate Mousse and Cherry Griotte though it burnt the biggest hole in the wallet. The taste of matcha is intense despite the presence of white chocolate.Do note that not all their boutiques have eat-in space. In Tokyo, only Isetan Shinjuku and Tokyo Midtown in Roppongi (pic above) serves both desserts and take-away cakes. It also serves savoury food such as pasta and quiche only at the Roppongi outlet.

JEAN PAUL HEVIN JAPAN ジャン=ポール・エヴァン
Cafe Boutiques:
--Roppongi Outlet
Tokyo Midtown Galleria B1F
Akasaka 9-7-4 Minato-ku 
Daily 11am-9pm
--Isetan Shinjuku
Shinjuku 3-14-1 Shinjuku-ku 
Daily 10.30am-8pm 
For full list of stores outside Tokyo and latest news: www.jph-japon.co.jp/
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